For various reasons, the 3Doodler sometimes stops extruding. This can happen with any 3D Printer. However, the 3Doodler is exceptionally easy to get going again by giving the filament a gentle nudge. The Filament Nudger is a hack to reduce the number of times the 3Doodler stalls or jams by providing a continuously nudging force on the filament.
3Doodler with Filament Nudger
The Nudger works with or without the Phaser Handle described in a previous blog : How to 3D-print a Handle and Trigger for the 3Doodler (and to make it look like a Phaser) If you have access to a 3D printer, you can build a Nudger yourself by downloading these files on Thingiverse.
3Doodler with Phaser Handle and Filament Nudger
The automatic Filament Nudger was designed to be powered by a pair of rubber bands, and it is cocked by pulling back on the Filament Grabber mechanism.
Cocking the Filament Nudger
The Grabber works like a 1-way clutch, pulling the filament toward the 3Doodler but releasing the filament when pulled in the other direction or when the Grabber bumps the back of the 3Doodler. The force applied by the rubber bands is effective in keeping the extruder going, but is not strong enough to prevent the filament retraction which conveniently keeps the 3Doodler from oozing between extrusions like a glue gun does.
Filament Nudger works with filament provided by 3Doodler
When used with the filament sticks provided by 3Doodler, the Filament Nudger has the benefits of (1) reducing extruder stalls and also (2) it lets you install a new stick any time after the trailing end of a stick disappears into the 3Doodler. Without the Nudger, a new stick may fall out when the 3Doodler is tipped upward before the new stick is engaged, and this can be annoying.
Filament Nudger also works with longer 3mm filament
With the Filament Nudger as a pre-feeder, Skip has been successfully using the same coiled filament that is used by MacGyvrBot (and other 3D printers). Warning: the use of such materials is not recommended by 3Doodler, and using any unauthorized materials will void the 3Doodler warranty!
Create a hinge pin for the Grabber with small piece of filament, and put button heads on the pin with the 3Doodler.
Attach the Frame to the 3Doodler with a zip-tie.
Cut (2) 1/8 inch bamboo skewers to 7 inch lengths and insert them into the Frame (drilling out the holes if they are too tight, locking them in with small nails if they are too loose).
Insert the Grabber onto the filament and skewers as shown.
Insert Filament Guide over skewers and filament as shown (drilling out the holes if they are too tight, locking them in with small nails if they are too loose).
Hook rubber bands over Grabber and attach them to Frame as shown.
In our next post we will show how to use the 3Doodler to hack up accessories for itself!
from MacGyvrBot on May 9th, 20140 Comments
I decided to package up my JAMMA test rig so that I could demo Crazy Otto at Rochester BarCamp for today. My design was basically a box that would house the entire thing, with a nice control panel for player 1. As you can see in the above image, I have the A/V cable going to an external monitor. Broken out on the box are player 1 and 2 start, coin 1, and player 1 controls – joystick and 3 buttons. On the right side of the box are the three “coin box” controls — Test, Tilt, and Service, for testing those functions of the board. Also on that side is a nice handle to help it be portable.
This is a continuation of part 1, where I updated the AV connections of the rig.
This is about the extent of blueprints I have for this. I knew I needed 14″ depth for the monitor, and that it needed about a 2″ rise from the back to the front to put it at a good angle. I wanted it to be 18″ wide, and 24″ deep. That would give enough room for a game board inside of it, as well as for a decent sized control panel.
I started by cutting a sheet of plywood I’ve had in our garage for a while. I also built the control panel using spare parts I had. Thanks to members of Interlock to help me use the table saw, suggest tools and offer bits of wood.
Some standard microswitch buttons, and a nice ball-top leaf-switch joystick.
The basic construction is that I glued some cleats on the inside of each side. Then the back, bottom, front and control panel will be screwed to it. After that, it looked like this:
I also cut and drilled a small metal bracket to hold the power supply in place, which you can see in the above. The coin 1 button on the front has a 12v light in it. The old P2 controller is still attached to the JAMMA rig, in case I want to test/play 2 player games. You can also see the 1 1/4″ fine thread drywall screws holding it together here. From here, the only change is that I painted it, stinking up our garage in the process. heh. The top lid hooks under the control panel, and has a cleat in the back to keep it from sliding off the back. There’s a single screw to hold it in place, and to let it be carried withot the contents falling out.
The great thing about this thing is that it’s easy to tote this thing around to play/demo games and such. It takes two trips since the monitor is cumbersome, and the box itself is pretty heavy, but it’s SIGNIFICANTLY easier than toting around a full arcade cabinet.
For reference, here’s the JAMMA pinout standard: (Most games since the late 1980s use this or a variant of it — for example, Neo Geo adds additional buttons on unused pins, Rampart uses a trackball on the joystick pins, and Mortal Kombat has additional buttons on another interface harness.)
The power and ground at the top portion are wired directly to the old PC power supply. Coin counters and lockout coils are not wired to anything. The speaker wires are broken out to a RCA plug, and the Video (RGB,Sync) are out to a DIN connector, as seen in the previous post. Service, Tilt, and Test are wired to the three switches on the side of the box. Coin switch 1, and the two start buttons are on the control panel, as are all of the 1P controls (on the right).
from BleuLlama on April 19th, 20140 Comments
The 3Doodler is a hand-held 3D printer! The company is now taking orders. Last summer it was a “crowd-funded” Kickstarter project, and we invested in it. Our reward for sponsoring this clever invention was to receive our very own pre-production device in January. It is kind of a cross between a hot-glue gun and a 3D printer.
Unlike a glue-gun that melts a stick of rubbery plastic to glue things together, the 3Doodler can melt a 3mm filament of ABS (a kind of plastic that many things are made of) and extrudes it into a softened web-like thread that can draw up off of the paper in the open air and into almost any shape you can imagine. While it is intended to be used for making plastic objects by drawing 3-dimensional doodles, we use it primarily to fix plastic objects that have broken or to hack plastic things by adding features to them. But more about that in a later blog post.
Now we would like to tell you how the team of MacGyvrBot and Skip have found a way to make this great product even better!
We used Tinkercad to hack-up a model for a Handle and Trigger mechanism, and then we published the design on Thingiverse so that anyone with access to a 3D printer can download the .stl files and make a Phaser Handle for 3Doodler of their own.
or you can just click these links to download the 3 files
This kind of sharing is called open-source hardware design and the practice allows people to build on each other’s ideas. You can also use Tinkercad to copy this design and modify it with your own ideas. Progress is faster this way, so open-source design is the best way to get the most out of 3D printing.
This Phaser Handle makes the 3Doodler look cool (like the Star Trek weapon), but it also makes doodling more comfortable (especially for people with small hands). The makers of the 3Doodler obviously have plans for making a handle, because they provided a handy mounting bracket with threaded holes for M3 screws. But we couldn’t wait!
The handle alone is beneficial, but using the trigger with the handle keeps the hand more relaxed during extended doodling.
The Phaser Handle is attached to the 3Doodler with a pair of M3 x 10mm screws (any head design). The trigger attaches to the handle with a pair of small flat head screws (such as 6-32 x 3/8 inch or M3 x 6mm) serving as hinge pins. The screws are available at Lowes and Home Depot.
The handle is hollow to allow access to a mounting screw (rather than having an infill of plastic in a sparse honeycomb pattern). If your printer drops a few threads while bridging across the top of the handle, just let it finish the job. Chances are it will recover before the top layer is reached. If it fails, you may have to adjust your slicer settings (such as slowing the speed for bridges) and try again.
In our next blog post, we will show you how to use the 3Doodler itself to update the Phaser Handle. The exercise will be a good demonstration of using the 3Doodler to hack an existing product.
from MacGyvrBot on March 10th, 20140 Comments